Torridon . Scotland
Nestled between the changeable shores of Loch Torridon and Shieldaig in the Scottish Highlands, we found ourselves at peace and isolated - aside from a few fisherman cottages and a boat that bobbed in the bay. Winter was harsh and bitter cold but only yielded a dusting of snow on the higher peaks that surrounded us - a soft, white powder that melted into burnt oranges of dry bracken.
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Location: Loch Torridon, Scotland
what3words: ///paddlers.sweetener.steers
Base: The Net Store, Ardheslaig, IV54 8XH
Summits: Beinn Alligin & Beinn Damh
Walk difficulty: Challenging
Season: Early Spring
We stayed at a former fisherman's net store on the coast of Loch Shieldaig, called The Net Store. Cut off on a desolate crag of rock jutting out into the loch and overlooking the two small fishing boats in the center of the bay. In contrast to its harsh and changeable setting - the store itself was a safe haven complete with all the possible comforts of home. The perfect base camp for quiet isolation and access to incredible highland scenery.
The trip was a mix of mountaineering and calming retreats back to our little shelter. We covered the outline of Torridon Loch by foot and paddle, with the highlight being an attempt across the Horns of Beinn Alligin.
The day after we arrived, we took to the water with a kayak across the Upper Loch Torridon. An outstanding site of sheer mountains meeting clouds and cold waters of 7°c degrees. From day one what we found most striking about the Scottish weather was how changeable the conditions were - varying from calm waters and sunny skies to violent gusts and driving icy rains.
After a few hours on the water, otter spotting we kicked back at the Torridon Hotel Whiskey Bar - A world-class collection of 365 whiskeys. We got to sample some of Scotland's finest single malts, all the while drinking in the incredible views, looking out on the former hunting lodge, before an outstanding three-course meal of seasonal and local produce at the Bo & Muc Restaurant.
We managed to sample more local delicacies such as venison stew with dumplings at Applecross Inn. A 40-minute drive away from our base along a stunning coast with a via at Applecross beach - a beautiful stretch of sand, razor clam shells and blue waters. Alternatively, you can choose the winding roads that climb through the incredible summits and valleys.
We caught the highlands shifting between the seasons, as Winter fell away to the power of an awakening sun. It wasn't all plain sailing; the best of the weather came on the day we'd set aside for our attempt at Beinn Alligin - the most beautiful Munroe in this part of Scotland. However, we hadn't accounted for the evening before, which had whipped up streaks of dense snow across all the peaks we intended to navigate over. Forced to turn back, having made it up the first spike of Alligin's three horns; our path was blocked by snow and ice that simply refused to melt in the blue-skied heat of the day. This didn't bother us; the snow-topped peaks gave us the best views of the week.
Notes: March & April is a great time to visit if you are keen to avoid the miggies.